Angkor – Astounding monuments of a glorious past

I am notoriously infamous within the family for my passion for history; the other members prefer the term fanaticism instead of passion and often refuse to accompany me for a vacation in historical places. Hence, my long time desire to visit Angkor in Cambodia remained supressed for past few years. This time before the Songkran holidays surprisingly, my worse half (husband) came up with the idea of visiting Siam Reap. He cited history being the reason; but I thinly suspected, a failed attempt to do a last minute plan for Japan during Cherry Blossom made him enthusiastic for the trip. Anyway, we packed our bags and started for Siam Reap from Bangkok (flying time only an hour) during the most unfavourable time of the year (April is the hottest month in Cambodia). ‘We will visit the temples in the early hours only I assured him’, ‘and what will we do for the rest of the day?’ he wasn’t so sure about my clemency. ‘Why, we will be in the Museum of course for the spare time’; ‘count me out’ was his response to my suggestion.

The day we arrived, we planned for a Sunset trip to the Tonle Sap Lake; the hotel arranged for the car and a guide. The boat ride in the afternoon Sun wasn’t that unpleasant, the floating village was an interesting site. We were informed that the entire village keep moving either in the canal (during winter) or in the main lake (during summer) depending on the season and water level. The Sunset from the rooftop of a floating restaurant was most spectacular, though the demonstration of live pythons by small kids and the crawling alligators in a ditch in the restaurant didn’t excite me at all.  

Next day we started from hotel at 4.45 am along with a guide for Angkor wat; we bought a three days pass on our way. After reaching the site in semi darkness we took position in the bank of the moat facing eastern wall of the temple. At 6 am the glimpse of dawn started painting the sky behind the Temple towers, which were designed after Mount Meru (The Mountain situated in Heaven as per Hindu Mythology). I was awestruck by the mystic beauty of the Temple in the shadow of the rising Sun; the magnificence of the archaeological wonder unfolded slowly as the daylight appeared.

The intimidating Sarpent gates, the vast compound, the intricate stone carvings and above all the wall relics of narrative scenes from Hindu Mythology were the causes for this 12^th century ‘Varaha Vishnu Lok’ temple to be considered world’s one of the  most spectacular monument.

The Angkor Thom or the ancient citadel built by King Jayavarman VII (Post Vishnu temple creator King Suryavarman II era) was the seat of a mighty Kingdom; the enormous gateway with the elaborate sculpture of Churning of ocean was a remnant of that. In my limited experience of ruins, I have never witnessed such thing before.   

The Gate

Churning of Ocean

The Bayon Temple depicted the face of Lokeshwara (an avatar of Lord Buddha) on the outer sculpture of each temple tower including the main building. The surrounding greenery and the peaceful ambience added a certain character to the temple.

The Bayon Temple

Depiction of Lokeshwara

The Ta phrom or Rajavihara temple, another significant temple built by King Jayqavarman VII was totally taken over by giant trees and submerged in the jungle. It was re-discovered and subsequently restoration work was taken up jointly by the Government of India and Cambodia in early 21^st Century. The architecture of this temple reminded of the ancient Buddhist temples of India. The pillars and walls of the Ta Phrom temple and the relics and statues peering from the arrogant trees radiated a deep sense of nostalgia ; it wasn't difficult to sense the forgotten era simply sitting at a corner. 

Ta Phrom Temple

An Apsara smiles from behind

The Angkor National Museum was great treasure for tourists interested in history; a visit to this place is must to understand the temples and Khmer culture truly. The respite from extreme sultry weather, an elaborate café and a most interesting souvenir shop also added to the significance of the Museum.

The indomitable spirit of Sonkran festivity was visible everywhere, from Angkor temple to the streets of the downtown. Enthusiastic locals were busy with waterguns splashing powder water at passerbys, though didn't aim at reluctant tourists. The numerous massage parlours at astonishingly cheap rates explained neighbouring Thai influence. The woodwork, spices (especially pepper), Kmer style paintings and bead jewellery were few things one could pick up; for more serious buyers there were art gallaries with wonderful artefacts. The street had many Indian restaurants offering authentic North as well as South Indian food at a very reasonable price. We tried Khbmer cuisine at a signature Cambodian restaurant on Khmer New Year day and the food was amazing, with a wonderful blend of oriental and Indian taste.

Sonkran Decor

Sonkran Decor

The Indian influence was unmistakable from temples to food and even in the Khmer language. The Petrol pumps showed signboard of selling 'Tela' (Oil in Sanskrit), fish was refered as 'Maccha' (Pali variation of Sanskrit Matsya). People were extremely humble and friendly, years of civil war and subjugation couldn't break their spirit for sure.

Overall our three days trip was a dreamlike tour to a land of history and heritage; one of the items in my bucket list being tick marked.