The
best time to visit Rajasthan is from October to March, hence, I planned my trip
in Diwali holidays. Kumbhalgarh was not in my original planner, as there were
many places to visit within a restricted time. But my local friends insisted and I
took a halt for a night at Kumbhalgarh while traveling from Jodhpur
to Udaipur Udaipur
While
traveling from the desert region of Jodhpur the
lush green forest
of Rajsamand
 |
| Wheel cart well in village |
There
are few hotels including budget ones down the hill, but the only hotel within 2
kms distance from the fort is Aodhi.
It is part of the HRH group of hotels and a former hunting lodge of the royals.
The hotel is surrounded by forest and only sound that can be heard is chirping
of birds. In the morning butterflies of numerous colors and designs welcome the
guests sitting in the balcony. There is possibility of getting mocked by
envious monkeys as well. The room décor gives the feel of heritage. Pool side
folk dance performance, candle light dinner at the open restaurant makes the
stay unforgettable.
 |
| Way to room |
 |
| Surrounding |
 |
| Friendly neighbors |
 |
| Evening performance |
The Fort
Unlike
Chittor, car could not reach to the top of the fort; one had to climb the stairs
which is not easy. But the first impression that occurred in mind of the fort was
its extraordinary defense; fortified by a wall 36 km long (second longest after
China
 |
| Fort at distance |
 |
| 'Fierce' |
 |
| Main Entrance |
 |
| Inside the fort |
 |
| Side view |
The
fort was constructed by Sisodia king Rana kumbh strating on 1443 and remained
unconquered in history. The great Rajput King ‘Maharana Pratap Singh’ was born
in this fort while his father Udai Singh II took refuge here before
overthrowing his traitor uncle from Chittor.
 |
| The palace |
 |
| Room of Rana Pratap's birth |
The
fort was constructed on the ruin of a Jain citadel established by legendary
Jain king Samprati (grandson of Emperor Ashoka). There were 300 jain temples
and 60 Hindu temples within the fort.
 |
| Temples inside |
 |
| View from fort |
Stories that echo within the stone
walls
Gleam
of a single oil lamp from the bracket (kulangi) of the eastside wall failed to
illuminate the enormous room. Soft moonlight, sweet smell of jasmine, cool
southern breeze added to the aura of a dreamy night. The massive four poster bed
in the middle of the room remained empty. Rana Kumbha, oblivious to all these; was staring at the star studded sky from his balcony. Lines of worry showed on the
forehead of the mighty ruler of Mewar. It concerned the ongoing construction of
the hill top fort at Rajsamand.
Chittor,
his beloved Chittor, the pride of Rajputana had been under incessant attacks
from ambitious royalties. Another mighty garrison was imperative for further
defense. Ranmal had been a great help in deciding the location. The ruin of the
Jain citadel was unanimously accepted to be in most strategic location. The
deep forest and the steep mountain would provide natural defense to the
fortress. Rana being a pious ruler considered the presence of numerous Jain
temples to be auspicious. It had been three months, since, the construction
work started. Ranmal himself was responsible for the development. But the
progress was not satisfactory so far; repeated collapsing of the boundary wall being
the reason. It had perplexed even the royal architect.
Was
Lord Eklingji not happy with him, was it his wish that Kumbha would fail in his
endeavor!
Rana went to bed at the breaking of dawn. A long day was waiting, king had no
respite.
Morning
Prayer was over; Kumbha came out of Lord Eklingji temple after seeking his
blessing. At this time of the day, Rana always felt humble and at peace. He
proceeded towards his chamber to be dressed quickly by the attendants. An urgent
meeting awaited him on the recent army mobilization of Sultan Mahmud Khalji of
Malwa. He was surprised to meet Ranmal at the entrance of his private chamber.
That was unusual of him.
“Ranaji, I want you to meet some one
very special before you get busy with your morning engagements.”
“Can’t it wait Ranmal, as you know
Chieftains are waiting for the meeting?”
“It is regarding the fort at Rajsamand.
Guruji Sant Mer wants an immediate audience with you.”
“Guruji has come down all the way to
meet me! We must hurry”.
The
holy seer was seated erect on his carpet mat, in the middle of the royal
chamber used for private audience of the king. Serenity of his bearing surpassed the extravagance of royal décor. King took entry accompanied by Ranmal; his
loyal confederate and sought for blessing from Guruji.
“May God bless you with victory Rajan.
You are a just ruler and a pious devotee; Lord is always with you.”
“Guruji, you could have summoned me
instead of taking all the trouble! Please, let me know the reason of your
advent.”
Guruji
smiled and explained the reason of his sudden appearance.
“The fort you are building at Rajsamand
will fail all your effort. The place you have chosen is not destined for that.”
Rana
crestfallen, enquired after a moment's silence -
“There is no way of amendment? Am I to
abort my project so crucial for protection of my Kingdom?”
“A lot of determination and sacrifice
is required, Rajan. It will not be easy.”
“I am ready to do anything Guruji, just
tell me what needs to be done.”
Sant
Mer Closed his eyes and remained silent for some time. Tension mounted up in the
atmosphere. At last he spoke;-
“Rajan, you need human sacrifice from a
holy soul. But it has to be voluntary. You or any of your men can not influence
the decision.”
“Surely, many will agree for the cause,
Rajputs are not cowards!” Ranmal reacted.
“You need a holy soul to offer himself
to God, not a soldier offering to be martyr.” Guruji pointed out. “Take your time and then come back to
me. I shall wait meditating in the forest near the site. May God bless you with
success!”
Rana
took leave and proceeded for his daily duty.
Entire
Chittor and the villages around were aware of the situation, everybody wanted to
offer help in some way to their reverend King. But none of the volunteers fitted the requirement. Ranmal stressed and tired was almost at the verge of breakdown.
King wore a permanent frown on his forehead. Fortnight passed by without
result; construction work was completely stalled. Rana called for a meeting with
his ministers and royal priest. Nobody came up with any credible solution. At
last, royal priest suggested him to meet Sant Mer and explain the situation.
Next
morning King reached the forest and bent down to Guruji.
“The King has failed in his duty
Guruji. I have been unsuccessful in my mission. Help me.”
“You have failed as a King to find a
sacrifice...…but won as a devotee. It is not easy for a mighty ruler to accept
failure. I shall help you to be successful. I am
offering myself to Almighty to seek blessing for your new fort. Tomorrow at the auspicious moment of
sunrise we both will reach the hill top. There you will behead me yourself. The
place where my head falls will be the main entrance of the fort. Build your
palace where my body touches earth. Keep my name attached to the name of the
fort. It will be invincible.”
“But how can I do this Guruji? Killing a
Brahmin, that too my Guru; will place me in eternal hell.”
“Don’t worry, do as I say. This is my
way of attaining Nirvana. You will be blessed for helping me in doing so.”
King agreed with a heavy heart. Next morning he sought forgiveness from Eklingji and beheaded his Guru at the hill top. The head of the holy man fell on the ground few
meters ahead. The headless body climbed further and finally fell few kilometers
up.
The entrance was named as Bhairon Pol and the fort as Kumbhalmer.
----------
Many
years passed by, King at sixty was still a strong man. A touch of grey had brought further solemnity to his powerful persona. In the full-moon night of
Vasant festival, the entire township in Kumbhalmer was soaked in the festivity
of color and love. King was enjoying the view of the full bloomed garden from
his chamber. Raag Vasant bahar was being played by royal musicians at some
distance. After thirty five years of reign he felt content, his duty as a
protector was fulfilled. All the enemies had been subdued; kingdom was secured
with eighty four garrisons. Kumbhalmer had proved to be the jewel of his crown.
Now
it was time to choose a successor to the throne. Prince Udai (Udai Singh I)
being the eldest of his brothers expected to be declared the crown prince. But
Rana was not sure of his capabilities. He was a good warrior, shrewd but some how
lacked the courage and generosity of a king. He was not the kind of leader
commanders and ministers would like to follow. Mewar certainly deserved a
better ruler. Raimal, though younger showed all the signs of a good
administrator. He was liked by the chieftains and common subjects as well.
'May
be this can wait for a while'; Rana smiles inwardly - he still felt the same
zest as he used to in younger days.
***
Rana was seated in front of Lord Eklingji engrossed in his morning prayer. The
massive Shivlinga (five feet tall) only he could worship in sitting posture. Rana was known for his great height very suitable to his overpowering presence. His
eyes were closed, deep in meditation. At this moment he looked more like a sage
than a king, calm and serene.
An
excruciating pain started drowning his senses all of a sudden. Before sinking to
the absolute darkness he noticed Udai his eldest son ready to hit him again
with a bloodied khanjar (deadly knife). “Eklingji; Mewar; Raimal” Rana felt silent.
Epilogue
Udai
Singh became king killing his great father. Complete apathy from chieftains
and hatred from subjects eclipsed his reign; Provinces and forts were lost to the
opportunist neighbors. Five years later on his way to Delhi
*** ***
