Kumbhalgarh, the Invincible Garrison

The best time to visit Rajasthan is from October to March, hence, I planned my trip in Diwali holidays. Kumbhalgarh was not in my original planner, as there were many places to visit within a restricted time. But my local friends insisted and I took a halt for a night at Kumbhalgarh while traveling from Jodhpur to Udaipur. Around 168 kms. from Jodhpur and 62 kms. from Udaipur; the fort is situated on Aravali range surrounded by deep forest that has housed a sanctuary as well.

While traveling from the desert region of Jodhpur the lush green forest of Rajsamand district came as a real surprise. As we journeyed further up temperature reduced significantly, giving respite from the strong desert sun. The road passed by many villages before entering the forest. The peaceful village life attracted the restless urban soul.  Children sold giant size custard apples collected from the forest, at throw away prices at the road side. 

Wheel cart well in village

There are few hotels including budget ones down the hill, but the only hotel within 2 kms distance from the fort is Aodhi. It is part of the HRH group of hotels and a former hunting lodge of the royals. The hotel is surrounded by forest and only sound that can be heard is chirping of birds. In the morning butterflies of numerous colors and designs welcome the guests sitting in the balcony. There is possibility of getting mocked by envious monkeys as well. The room décor gives the feel of heritage. Pool side folk dance performance, candle light dinner at the open restaurant makes the stay unforgettable.

Way to room

Surrounding

Friendly neighbors

Evening performance

The Fort

Unlike Chittor, car could not reach to the top of the fort; one had to climb the stairs which is not easy. But the first impression that occurred in mind of the fort was its extraordinary defense; fortified by a wall 36 km long (second longest after China wall) and the strategic hill top location. No one can reach the entrance without getting noticed by peering eyes from the wall. It is not difficult to visualize only a single rock pushed from top disrupting a cavalry. The fort in one word can be described as ‘fierce’; no doubt those ruling it were bravest of men.

Fort at distance

'Fierce'

Main Entrance

Inside the fort

Side view

The fort was constructed by Sisodia king Rana kumbh strating on 1443 and remained unconquered in history. The great Rajput King ‘Maharana Pratap Singh’ was born in this fort while his father Udai Singh II took refuge here before overthrowing his traitor uncle from Chittor.

The palace

Room of Rana Pratap's birth

The fort was constructed on the ruin of a Jain citadel established by legendary Jain king Samprati (grandson of Emperor Ashoka). There were 300 jain temples and 60 Hindu temples within the fort.

Temples inside

View from fort

Stories that echo within the stone walls

Gleam of a single oil lamp from the bracket (kulangi) of the eastside wall failed to illuminate the enormous room. Soft moonlight, sweet smell of jasmine, cool southern breeze added to the aura of a dreamy night. The massive four poster bed in the middle of the room remained empty. Rana Kumbha, oblivious to all these; was staring at the star studded sky from his balcony. Lines of worry showed on the forehead of the mighty ruler of Mewar. It concerned the ongoing construction of the hill top fort at Rajsamand.

Chittor, his beloved Chittor, the pride of Rajputana had been under incessant attacks from ambitious royalties. Another mighty garrison was imperative for further defense. Ranmal had been a great help in deciding the location. The ruin of the Jain citadel was unanimously accepted to be in most strategic location. The deep forest and the steep mountain would provide natural defense to the fortress. Rana being a pious ruler considered the presence of numerous Jain temples to be auspicious. It had been three months, since, the construction work started. Ranmal himself was responsible for the development. But the progress was not satisfactory so far; repeated collapsing of the boundary wall being the reason. It had perplexed even the royal architect.

Was Lord Eklingji not happy with him, was it his wish that Kumbha would fail in his endeavor!

Rana went to bed at the breaking of dawn. A long day was waiting, king had no respite.

Morning Prayer was over; Kumbha came out of Lord Eklingji temple after seeking his blessing. At this time of the day, Rana always felt humble and at peace. He proceeded towards his chamber to be dressed quickly by the attendants. An urgent meeting awaited him on the recent army mobilization of Sultan Mahmud Khalji of Malwa. He was surprised to meet Ranmal at the entrance of his private chamber. That was unusual of him.

“Ranaji, I want you to meet some one very special before you get busy with your morning engagements.”

“Can’t it wait Ranmal, as you know Chieftains are waiting for the meeting?”

“It is regarding the fort at Rajsamand. Guruji Sant Mer wants an immediate audience with you.”

“Guruji has come down all the way to meet me! We must hurry”.

The holy seer was seated erect on his carpet mat, in the middle of the royal chamber used for private audience of the king. Serenity of his bearing surpassed the extravagance of royal décor. King took entry accompanied by Ranmal; his loyal confederate and sought for blessing from Guruji.

“May God bless you with victory Rajan. You are a just ruler and a pious devotee; Lord is always with you.”

“Guruji, you could have summoned me instead of taking all the trouble! Please, let me know the reason of your advent.”

Guruji smiled and explained the reason of his sudden appearance.

“The fort you are building at Rajsamand will fail all your effort. The place you have chosen is not destined for that.”

Rana crestfallen, enquired after a moment's silence -

“There is no way of amendment? Am I to abort my project so crucial for protection of my Kingdom?”

“A lot of determination and sacrifice is required, Rajan. It will not be easy.”

“I am ready to do anything Guruji, just tell me what needs to be done.”

Sant Mer Closed his eyes and remained silent for some time. Tension mounted up in the atmosphere. At last he spoke;-

“Rajan, you need human sacrifice from a holy soul. But it has to be voluntary. You or any of your men can not influence the decision.”

“Surely, many will agree for the cause, Rajputs are not cowards!” Ranmal reacted.

“You need a holy soul to offer himself to God, not a soldier offering to be martyr.” Guruji pointed out. “Take your time and then come back to me. I shall wait meditating in the forest near the site. May God bless you with success!”

Rana took leave and proceeded for his daily duty.

Entire Chittor and the villages around were aware of the situation, everybody wanted to offer help in some way to their reverend King. But none of the volunteers fitted the requirement. Ranmal stressed and tired was almost at the verge of breakdown. King wore a permanent frown on his forehead. Fortnight passed by without result; construction work was completely stalled. Rana called for a meeting with his ministers and royal priest. Nobody came up with any credible solution. At last, royal priest suggested him to meet Sant Mer and explain the situation.

Next morning King reached the forest and bent down to Guruji.

“The King has failed in his duty Guruji. I have been unsuccessful in my mission. Help me.”

“You have failed as a King to find a sacrifice...…but won as a devotee. It is not easy for a mighty ruler to accept failure. I shall help you to be successful. I am offering myself to Almighty to seek blessing for your new fort. Tomorrow at the auspicious moment of sunrise we both will reach the hill top. There you will behead me yourself. The place where my head falls will be the main entrance of the fort. Build your palace where my body touches earth. Keep my name attached to the name of the fort. It will be invincible.”

“But how can I do this Guruji? Killing a Brahmin, that too my Guru; will place me in eternal hell.”

“Don’t worry, do as I say. This is my way of attaining Nirvana. You will be blessed for helping me in doing so.”

King agreed with a heavy heart. Next morning he sought forgiveness from Eklingji and beheaded his Guru at the hill top. The head of the holy man fell on the ground few meters ahead. The headless body climbed further and finally fell few kilometers up.

The entrance was named as Bhairon Pol and the fort as Kumbhalmer.

----------

Many years passed by, King at sixty was still a strong man. A touch of grey had brought further solemnity to his powerful persona. In the full-moon night of Vasant festival, the entire township in Kumbhalmer was soaked in the festivity of color and love. King was enjoying the view of the full bloomed garden from his chamber. Raag Vasant bahar was being played by royal musicians at some distance. After thirty five years of reign he felt content, his duty as a protector was fulfilled. All the enemies had been subdued; kingdom was secured with eighty four garrisons. Kumbhalmer had proved to be the jewel of his crown.

Now it was time to choose a successor to the throne. Prince Udai (Udai Singh I) being the eldest of his brothers expected to be declared the crown prince. But Rana was not sure of his capabilities. He was a good warrior, shrewd but some how lacked the courage and generosity of a king. He was not the kind of leader commanders and ministers would like to follow. Mewar certainly deserved a better ruler. Raimal, though younger showed all the signs of a good administrator. He was liked by the chieftains and common subjects as well.

'May be this can wait for a while'; Rana smiles inwardly - he still felt the same zest as he used to in younger days.

***

Rana was seated in front of Lord Eklingji engrossed in his morning prayer. The massive Shivlinga (five feet tall) only he could worship in sitting posture. Rana was known for his great height very suitable to his overpowering presence. His eyes were closed, deep in meditation. At this moment he looked more like a sage than a king, calm and serene.

An excruciating pain started drowning his senses all of a sudden. Before sinking to the absolute darkness he noticed Udai his eldest son ready to hit him again with a bloodied khanjar (deadly knife). “Eklingji; Mewar; Raimal” Rana felt silent.

Epilogue

Udai Singh became king killing his great father. Complete apathy from chieftains and hatred from subjects eclipsed his reign; Provinces and forts were lost to the opportunist neighbors. Five years later on his way to Delhi, on a mission to offer a daughter on marriage to the Sultan; he died of lightening. Mewar got her rightful sovereign atlast; Raimal ascended the throne.

***  ***