Travel to a mystique land of history – Bhopal

In 2011, a last minute travel plan for Christmas holiday didn’t leave me with much choice due to excessive rush in popular destinations. Neither, I had a high budget, as this was a small vacationing. I was based in Delhi, hence, started exploring the lesser known destinations around. Finally, very reluctantly I chose Bhopal; primary reason being availability of hotel accommodation and Shatabdi train ticket.

In the freezing cold morning of 24^th I started for Bhopal. It was a train journey after a very long time. I was pleasantly surprised by the cleanliness and hospitality. 7 hours journey became comfortable and fascinating.

Setting foot at Bhopal station in the afternoon took me by surprise with bright sunshine and mild weather. The clock tower at the station reminded of the British influence over the princely state of Bhopal.

Noor Us Sabah

Hotel ‘Noor us Sabah palace’ was my home for the trip. "Noor-Us-Sabah" meaning -"The Light Of Dawn" was built in the 1920's by H.H.Hamid Ullah Khan, for his eldest daughter Begum Abida Sultan. After partition, Begum Abida immigrated to Pakistan leaving the palace to be inherited by her younger sister Begam Sajda Sultan married to Nawab of Pataudi Iftikhar Ali khan Pataudi. The hotel is parched on the top of a hillock facing the great lakes of Bhopal. The high Dome like ceilings and arches remind of the bygone era. The historic photographs of the original palace, palanquin, horse carriage placed at strategic points add grandeur to the atmosphere. One can easily feel the aura of Royal household with little imagination.

Noor us Sabah



View from Hotel

Udaygiri

I hired a car for all the days I was stationed at Bhopal and insisted on an enthusiastic driver. This way it often helps to explore lesser known sights. Like every tourist of Bhopal, I decided to visit Sanchi Stupa first. Once started for the journey, driver informed there is a hill of caves in Vidisha district with little diversion from Sanchi. I headed for Vidisha to visit ‘Udaygiri’ – the hill of sunrise. It’s about 84 km from Bhopal and the last stretch is not very comfortable ride. I was little apprehensive about the rendezvous, more so because there was no other tourist car in sight.

 The surroundings transformed to a lost kingdom, once, reached to the hilltop, the kingdom of virtue and pride, the almost forgotten era of Gupta dynasty during the period 4^th to 5^th A.D. The grand entrance, the motifs and the intricacy and finesse of the artwork made me wonder about the zenith of excellence reached by the artisans of this time.  The caves have several statues of Lord Vishnu, as Guptas were known to be follower of Lord Vishnu. There's a statue of Lord Vishnu as the Varaha Avatar (or the Boar Incarnation) and also one of the reclining Lord Vishnu. The statue of Varaha Avatar is very near to the main entrance, showing him coming out of water rescuing Mother Earth (depicted as a woman). The local guide informed that the water body across the road was originally stretched till the cave to create an elusion of Varaha Avatar actually coming out of pataal (Kingdom below the surface of Earth). This very cave with its artistic visionary kept me spellbound. The statue of reclining Lord Vishnu is massive and Awe inspiring. There is a ‘Shiva Lingam’ with face of Lord Shiva in one of the caves which is unique. There are few caves used by Jain saints at the upper level, but not allowed for public viewing due to their dire state.

On the way to Udaygiri

Udaygiri front view

Reclining Lord Vishnu

Unique 'Shiva Lingam'

Water body accross the road

Varaha Avatar

Sanchi Stupa

Finally I started for Sanchi, the world heritage site and sacred pilgrimage place for Buddhists. While reaching Sanchi I noticed a state run Archeological Museum and decided to visit the place after sightseeing. The road for cars till hill top was under repair, hence, took long flights of stairs. Reaching the top realized how worth the effort was. I decided on recorded guide to stroll around at own pace, as these great places of history are not only to be seen but felt.

Emperor Ashoka initially constructed the magnificent Sanchi Stupa during the 3rd Century BCE (Before Common Era). The core of the construction was shaped as a semicircle, which was made over the remnants of Lord Buddha. The Stupa is bordered by Toranas or forms of entrances and every one of the Toranas is a symbol of harmony, affection, bravery, and faith. Other than the main Stupa there are seven more Stupas built in later years. Sri Lanka Government has made a very nice place of worship at the entrance where every year grand celebration takes place.

While returning I visited the museum that made me aware of the sincere efforts of British officers to restore the neglected and forgotten Sanchi Stupa. In 1818 General Taylor made public his 'discovery' of these magnificent ruins. It was Sir John Marshall, Director General of Archaeology in India, who began arranging for restoration and proper preservation of the monuments. There are some priceless photographs and documents related to the ruin before restoration and the restorers.



Intricate work



Lord Buddha



Artistic messages on Toranas

Raisen Fort

While retuning from Sanchi, which is in Raisen District; driver suggested visiting Raisen fort. The origins of the fort go back to 1200 AD. Up to the 15th century it was under rulers of various Hindu lines, including the Rajputs. In 1543 Sher Shah Suri captured it from Puranmal. Subsequently in 1760 Fiaz Mohammad Khan, the third Nawab of Bhopal, occupied it. As a result, up to India's independence in 1947, Raisen remained part of the Princely state of Bhopal. Reaching the base of the hill I realised that the the journey to the top has to be on foot by narrow treacherous path. There was no tourist around, but lot of locals mainly lovebirds came for outing. The fort in quite dilapidated state still depicts the grandeur it once commanded. The structure is greatly influenced by Rajput architecture for obvious reason. I decided to avoid going up and view it from the base from different angels.

Bhojeshwar Temple

Next day I headed for Bhojeshwar temple at Bhojpur district. I did not expect much to be left of an 11^th century temple weathered through centuries of turmoils. But, I was wrong.

Bhojeshwar temple is the temple of Lord Shiva constructed by the legendary Parmar King of Dhar, Raja Bhoj (1010-1053). Bhojpur, the ancient name of Bhopal came from this mighty king who was a great admirer of art and science, apart from being a worthy ruler and great worrier. The king could not complete the construction of the temple due to his death in the battlefield while defending his kingdom from the Chalukyas combined with Lakshmi-Karna of the Kalachuri dynasty. Still the awe inspiring structure of the dream temple of a great visionary compels us to look back at our glorious past. Its great stone blocks encompass a doorframe, which towers ten meters high and five meters wide. Four titanic pillars, richly carved, rise to support an incomplete dome. The high noon sun lances through the dome, illuminates a massive pedestal made of three stepped blocks of sandstone, seven meters square. An iron ladder ascends this huge pedestal to reach the uppermost platform, directly beneath the high roof, open to the sky. Dominating this platform and the great brooding temple is a magnificent lingam more than five meters high and over two meters in circumference. Deity is still worshiped everyday; priest performing the puja befits the ancient temple.

Bhim Betka

My next destination was Bhim betka, 46 kms south of Bhopal at the southern edge of Vindhyachal hills. This is another world heritage site of Rock shelters of Paleolithic to Neolithic age. Mythology says, Bhim sat and meditated here, hence, a temple is situated nearby.

Bhimbetka Caves consists of South Asia's richest collection of prehistoric paintings and other archeological discoveries. These paintings are done mainly in red and white colors with the variable use of green and yellow. The subject of the paintings varied from animals to hunting and other rituals. Viewing those paintings inside the caves, one wonders was I the one painting that bison or the elephant at a different time! The people living at those caves were around 8ft tall with 35 yrs of average life span (medical facility being unheard of).

On my return, I visited the archeological museum of Bhopal. The different sections with collections from different centuries, a different section for collections of coins and inscriptions enables to understand the history of the lost era of Hindu and Buddhist dynasties.

The lakes and Van Vihar

Last day of my stay I visited the lakes ( upper and lower). There are boating facility and lake facing restaurants for spending a pleasant winter afternoon in the bank of upper lake. Not to mention, the graceful swans enhance the beauty of the lakes and entertain kids.

Van Vihar National park at the outskirt of Bhopal is an exciting place to spend a day with family. Specially, the greenery and the embankment of lake is very eye soothing.

I can not wrap up my travel diary without mentioning the special Kebab and Butter Nun treat at Hotel Jehan Numa palace ‘Under banyan tree’ restaurant.

I went with open mind to a lesser known tourist spot, came back with a treasure of priceless memories of a past to be remembered and to remind.