We reached Luxor airport around 10 at night, flight was of 45 minutes, but both of us were exhausted from our respective rendezvous during the day. Our guide for Luxor, Tareq came to receive us at the airport. It was a clean, picturesque city along the eastern bank of Nile; we could trace the river on our way to the hotel which was also on the bank of it. The beautiful waterside promenade was still lively, the well-lit roads were thriving with tourists mostly Europeans. We were told it was a safe and tourist friendly place.
Next day early morning,
we woke up with the chirping of birds and the first ray of Sun dazzling on the
Nile water. It was a beautiful sight, with the valley of Kings visible on the
other bank.
We had an early start
after a quick breakfast by the river, our first destination being the valley of
Kings, the desert valley of mountains that housed the Royal tombs. Luxor was
known as ‘Thebes,’ the capital of the ‘New Kingdom Era’ (16th to 11th
Century BC) when the Pharaohs discovered the pyramid like shape of this
mountain valley and decided to build tombs underneath. From that the name
arrived.
At the Valley of Kings,
the Entrance fees included any three of the tombs except, Seti I and Tutankhamun’s.
I was keen to visit Seti I’s tomb also for its exquisite paintings, as Gamal
made me aware of it earlier. So, we bought a separate ticket for that too.
Tareq gave us a brief idea about the tombs we were to visit, those were of
Ramesis IV, Ramesis I and Ramesis II. He wasn’t very amused with my idea of
visiting Seti I’s tomb, as he seemed to be of controlling nature and accustomed
to handle a category of European tourists who mostly came for photoshoots
rather than having any real interest in history. We visited first the tomb of Ramesis IV,
this became a refuge for the Christians during Roman rule, as the state was
anti Christianity at that time. There were several cross marks to be traced in
the encrypted walls of the entrance tunnel, the traditional paintings and
inscriptions were also in quite good state retaining original colors. Tombs of Ramesis
I and II were also well decorated and in reasonably good state, though Ramesis
I’s was a steep decline, hence needed maneuvering of a good number of not so
friendly stairs.
At Ramesis IV |
At Ramesis II |
Ramesis IV |
Seti I’s tomb, as I imagined was spectacular with bright colored wall paintings almost intact; a particular one of Seti and his queen caught my fancy for its bold colors and romantic pose. In earlier tombs I did not notice any such couple painting, though later in many temples found such engraves of the God couples.
Seti I and his queen Tuya |
Seti I tomb |
Our next destination
was Hatshepsut temple which was dedicated to the first female ruler of Egypt of
the same name. The terrace temple structure was rebuilt by Polish archeologists'
team during 20th Century, though gave a fantastic feel of ancient
time in the desert valley background.
Hatshepsut seen as a man and woman |
Karnak temple columns |
Lines of Sphinx at the entrance |
Later, we visited
the Luxor temple site, which was not much than a ruin. Though, from the
promenade in front we could witness a beautiful sunset on the Nile water.
Luxor temple |
We bought papyrus paintings from one of the certified shops in Luxor, they also explained us the process and showed different stages of the weathering. Luxor was known for authentic papyrus.
Tareq was insisting on
a very early start with breakfast box next morning, we were to reach Aswan via
road with a diversion to visit Edfu and the town of Kom Ombo. We were really
tired from last few days of ruins visits and the desert heat in Luxor further
added to the misery. I negotiated to start post breakfast, even if that meant
omitting a site on the way.
Edfu was two and half
hours of drive from Luxor, excellent road and picturesque landscape made it
quite enjoyable, though constant jabbering from our guide was quite irritating.
He expected me to be amazed seeing truckload of sugarcane or a herd of cows;
unfortunately I could not oblige (being from a country known for both). The
temple at Edfu was for the Falcon God Horus who was the symbol of protection
and war. Horus’s wife Hathor represented cow, as in ancient Egypt like India
cow was considered a sacred animal symbolizing wealth and prosperity. The Edfu
temple and the Philae temple in Aswan were built in the Ptolemaic and Roman Era
and showed the same pattern of having a birth house for the Son of the House God
at the entrance. In this case, it was the birth house of Imsety, the son of God
Horus and his wife Hathor. The entrance to the temple had two massive statues
of falcon and several others inside which were awe inspiring.
Edfu Museum, Boat of Horus |
Inside the temple |
Outside wall engrave |
The Kom Ombo town was
further one and half hours of drive and a very old settlement with distinct
middle eastern influence unlike Luxor. The temple there was merely a ruin, not
much could be deciphered from a layman’s perspective. Our guide took leave from
us at this point, as a new local guide, a lady was to join us the next day. I
was more than happy to get rid of this clown, who by then managed to put me at
my wits’ end.
Kom Ombo Temple |
We reached Aswan around four in the afternoon, exhausted yet welcomed by a hilltop hotel with a Nile view. I was determined to make this stay a relaxing one feeling the essence of the place rather than running after touristy sites mindlessly. We communicated to our future guide accordingly. The hotel had a beautiful terrace restaurant, we had a lovely candlelight dinner there under the starry night, overlooking the illuminated city landscape.
Next day we started
late after a leisurely breakfast; a short boat ride took us to the island of
Philae Temple. On the way I noticed an interesting Nubian structure motel at
one of the smaller islands. Aswan became a settlement for the Nubian community
from North Sudan, after their uprise during 25th Dynasty around 8th
Century BCE. The Nubians had distinct appearance and mostly they were
Christians unlike the rest of the population.
The Philae temple was dedicated to the Goddess Isis, the mother of Horus and the wife of God Osiris and she was the Goddess of healing and medicine. This temple was also constructed during Ptolemian Era, hence had a birth house for Horus at the entrance. The beautiful temple surrounded by water was truly a place to visit and also enjoy the scenic beauty.
Philae Temple |
Perfume grinder at Temple |
Isis and Osiris |
The rest of the day we indulged in some interesting shopping, be it perfumed oil, spices, and some silver jewelry, especially one that replicated a piece from the Cairo Museum which belonged to Queen Nefertari. Our guide Rasha, being a woman loved helping, not only by taking us to the choicest shops, but also giving valuable suggestions.
That day evening, based
on Rasha’s recommendation we went to dine at ‘Nineteen O two’ restaurant at
Sofitel Old Cataract Hotel. The hotel was a heritage one that historically
housed many celebrities, my favourite being Agatha Christie. The fine dining
restaurant also carried the same lineage and still maintained the standard of
discretion and quality. It was truly an experience to dine there with live
piano, pure silver cutlery, delicious food and choicest wine.
Next day we took the
flight to Cairo in the afternoon post another round of shopping of Egyptian
cotton wares.
An Egypt tour would
have been incomplete without visiting the two ancient cites Luxor and Aswan who
distinctly represent the era of Ancient Egypt or Misr as the country was
referred then. Interestingly, in Sanskrit we refer to the country as Misr Desha
that reflected on the ancient sea trade tie India had with Egypt.
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